Riding the wave

Ok, here's the deal: I'm getting owned in Physics, period. But I still dont have the balls to drop, but I know I should! Colleges will not like it..ughh. So, this week is all about impulse and momentum. I was at the beach this weekend at Makapuu and the waves were perfect; they were begging those in the water to ride them. If you've ever body surfed or surfed or boogie boarded you know what I'm talking about: that feeling of you and wave moving as one once you catch it. It's beautiful. When you see the right wave coming towards you, you start paddling harder and faster as it comes closer and closer. Then finally, the waves takes you away with it, increasing your momentum due to the increase in your veloctiy. The change in my mometum is equal to the net force (all the forces acting upon me: friction of water, my weight, gravity in the water, etc.) times the change in time (from the time I saw the wave (standing still) to the time of me riding the wave). If you havent been to the beach in awhile, go! :)